Jean Paul Gaultier - Couture SS2010
As the Spring Summer Haute Couture week starts in Paris a question always comes back: “Is couture dead ?” Whenever I hear this, it makes me cringe. Clearly it is necessary to understand what couture is and what it stands for. The simple declaration that couture is dying because sales are constricted, only shows the incapacity of critics to look at the bigger picture.
The relevance of couture to fashion and life goes way beyond direct sales. Couture is the expression of very highly qualified crafts. It is a factory of dreams, with extremely refined workmanship and countless hours of very detailed work on every piece. It is priceless or to put into better words, it comes at a price.
Born in the mid 19th century, couture has never been a business for the masses. It is a spectacle, beauty! And more importantly, it provides the noise for selling products from perfumes to bags. Haute Couture is not only pertinent to the circus of the fashion industry but also a social and cultural expression. This is the place where creative figures like Lagerfeld of Chanel, Galliano of Dior, Tisci of Givenchy, Jean Paul or McQueen can be given total freedom to create their wildest dreams. This is the place of no limits. Fabrics used are the most expensive and ostentatious as are the trims. Craftsmanship is luxurious, totally handmade and special. And most importantly, it is made to measure. There will be many fittings before it is ready, so you engage in the process but it does last a lifetime.
An extravagance, a masterpiece, art !!! It is a world apart. And yes, only a handful of women can afford it. I understand that it had to be re-invented especially with the extremely talented, and my favourite couturier, Mr. Lacroix failing to make his business work and filing for bankruptcy last year. However, I personally insist on 2 opinions. First Haute Couture is not dead nor dying. Secondly it is, or can be profitable.
The big fashion groups and Maisons have learned how to make it a very profitable business. LVMH, Chanel, Hermés, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior, you name it. It is an exclusive club and very restrictive. It is a living art. The show must go on even if only a very select few can afford to own Haute Couture.
So what ? How many people own a Renoir or a Picasso ???
Rosane Ribeiro
“The thing about haute couture, unlike prêt-à-porter clothing, is that you actually have to engage with the process and repeatedly go for fittings. Couture clothes last so much longer because so much work goes into them. [...] I still buy couture, but very little and very carefully, because it’s so expensive. The last piece was a small coat-dress from Chanel, which I’ve worn about 50 times already.” Daphne Guinness
“Fabulous, fantasy and made to fit the wearer specifications” Hillary Alexander
